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MISCELLANEOUS. No. 5.
30th CONGAS, , r [ HO. OF RJEPS. ]
2rf Session.
- \- •
•''.' i
GEOGBAPIIICAL MEMOIR
VFON
3
UPPER'CAL1FOMIA
IN ILLUSTRATION OF HIS »
MAP OF OREGON AKD CALIFORNIA.
BY
JOH?f CHARLES FREMOxTT;
ADDRB3SED TO THE SENATE OF THE UNITED STATES.
«
WASHINGTON:
3PRINTED BY TIPPIN & STREEPER.
1849.
30th CONGRESS, 2d iS^wion,
[HO. OF REPS.] MISCELLANEOUS Ps^. 5.
UPPER CALIFORNIA
GE05RAPHICAL MEMOIR
UPO ^
5
UPPER CALIFORNIA
IN
J
Sllnstt'd£w)i of his map of Oregon and California^ by John Charles Premont. '
JANUARY 2, 1849.
J
SesotveS, That twenty thousand extra copies of Colonel FremonL's last rpport to the Senate, be printed. '
On the second day of February, in the year 1847, during my absence •on my third expedition oi topographical survey, hi the western part of this continent, a resolve was passed by the Senats directing the construction of two maps—one of the central section of the Rocky mountains, and the other of Oregon and I'Jpper California—from the materials collected by me in the [wo previous expeditions, and with the additions which the then existing expedition might furnish ; an^ Mr. Charles Preuss, my assistant in the first and second expeditions, was employed to commence the work.
On my retura to the United Slates, in the month of September last, I, found Mr Preuss closely engaged upon the work on which the Senate had employed him; and, from that lime to the present, 1 have myself given all the time that could be spared from other engagements to supply the additions which the last expedition has enabled me to make. Conceiving that the map of Oregon and California was of the most immedi-' ale and pressing importance, I first directed my attention to its preparation, iii order to bring it into a condition as soon as possible to be laid before the Senate ; which is now done.
In laying this map of Oregon and Upper California before the Senate, 1 deem it proper to show the extent and general character of the work, and. how far it may be depended on as correct, as being founded on-my own or other surveys, and how far it is conjectural; and oiily presented as the best that is known.
In extent, it embraces the whole western side of this continent bet-ween the eastern base of the Rocky mountains and the Pacific oc"an, and between the straits of Fucaand the gulf of California, taking for its outline, on the north, the boundary line with Great Britain, and on the south, in-
Tipl'iin & ^creeper, primers.
p
4
Mh. No. 5.
eluding the bay of San Diego, the head of the gulf of California, the nrt ers Colorado and GiJa,and oil the^country through which the line of the lat? treaty Wh Mexico would run, from El Paso del Norte to the sea, To complete the view in,that quarter, the valley of the Rio Uel Norie is ,addedifrom the head of the river to El Paso del Norte, thereby inciu.
itinpr New Mexico, The m;ip has been constructed expressly to exibit — ' -" ' - • ---' i- - - 11 ;, i
/liner 1\PW HflCAli--*-'' i. 11'-' m"i/ n"" .,,,-— - . n . ',
^he^^oTountries of Oregon and the Alia California together
ieved to be the most correct that has appeared of either of the, cSy the only one that shows the structure and configuration of the
interior of Upper California. • . The part of the map which exhibits Oregon is chiefly copied from the
works of others, but not entirely, my own explorations in that territory havinff extended to nearly two thousand miles. The part which exhibits California, and especially the Great Basin, the Sierra Nevada, the beauti. fill valley of Sacramento and San Joaquin, is chiefly from my own surveys or personal view, and in such cases is given a-, correct. Where my own observations d:d not extend, the best authorities have been followed. , .1 c * T.-r The profile view-in the margin, on the north side of the map, exhibits
the elevations of the country from the Sof/th Pass in the Rocky moun-' tains to the bay of San Francisco, passing the Utah and the Great Salt lake, following the river Humboldt through the northern side of the Great Basin, crossing the Sierra Nevada into the valley of ihe Sacramento, where the emigrant road now crosses that sierra forty miles north ofISne-va Helvetia. This line shows the present travelling route to California. The profile on the south side of the map exhibits the elevations of the country on a different line—the line of exploration in the last expedition —from the head of the Arkansas by the LJiah and Salt lake, and through the interior afthe Great Basin, crossing the Sierra Nevada into Sacramento valley at the head of the Rio dc los Americanos. These profile views are given merely for their anilines^ to slao,w the structure of the country between the Rocky mountains and the sea, and the rise and fall occasioned by mountains and valleys. Full and descriptive profile views on a large scale are warned, marking the geological structure of the country, and exhibiting at their proper altitudes the different producrs of the vegetable kingdom Some material is already collected for such a purpose,
extending on different lines from the Mississippi to the Pacinc, but not sufficient to complete the work.
The Arabic figures on different parts of the map indicate the elevation of places above the level of the sea ; a knowledge of which is essential to ajust conception of the climate and aaricuitural capacities ota country.
1 he longuudfcis established on the line of expioration of the last expedition are based on a sf-nes ofasironoinicdl observations, restins on fu"r roam positions, delennined by lunar ciiliniiianoiis. The first of these
main positions is at the niouth of ihe^///^«e ^ Bwit river, on the Upper Arkansas; the second is on the eastern t-hore of the Great Salt lake, and two in the vall.y of the Sacramento, at the western base of the Sierra Nevada. 1 his line of astronomical observations, thus carried
across the continent, readies the Pacific ocean on the nonherii shore of .me bay ei Menterey.
wa1"!^?'1131"116'1^^'0''"^^''1815'1^1"16 of'he western coast was laid down according to Vancouver, When Hie newly estabhshad
^lis. No. 5. 5
positions were placed on the map now laid before the Senate, it was found that they carried the line of the coast about fourteen miles west, and the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin about twenty miles east; making an increase of more than thirty miles in the breadth of the country bolow the Sierra Nevada. Upon examination, it was found that -these positions agreed nearly with the observations of Captain Beechey, aE Monterey. The corrections required by the new positions were theft accordingly made ; the basin of the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys was removed to the eastward, and the line of the coast projected farthpi west, conformably to my observafions, retaining the configuration given-to it hy the surveys of Vancouver.
The error in the position of the San Joaquin, Sacramento, and Wahlah-math valleys still exists upon the most authentic maps extant; and it appears that, upon the cllarls in general use, a greatly erroneous position is still given to the coast.
t^y the return of the United States sloop of-war Portsmouth, Commanderi Montgomery, from the Pacific ocean, it is learned that two British ships-of-w;ir are now engaged in making a new survey of the gulf and coast of California. It is also known that an American whale ship was recently lost on the coast of California in consequence of the errors in the.chans now in general use, locating the coast and islands, from Monierey south, too far east.^
The astronomical observations made by me across t^e continent, in, this my third expedition, were calculated by Professor Hubbard, of ibe National Observatory, (Washington city,) during the present winter; and a note from him on the subject of these observations is added as an appendix to this memoir. My attention having been recently called to this subject, (the true position of the coast of California,) I find it worthy of remark that the position given to this coast on the charts of the old:
Spanish navigators agrees nearly with t'hat which would be assigne'd to it by the observations of the most eminent naval surveyors of the present day. The position adopted for Monterey and the adjacent coast, on the map now laid before the Senate, agrees nearly with that in which it had beefl placed by the observations ot Malaspina^ in 1791.
In constructing this map if became necessary to adopt ihe coast line 01 the Pacific, as found in maps in general use, to give it completeness. It was no part of my design to make a chart of the coast, - Finding an error when i came to lay down the bay of Monterey, I altered my map to suit it, I knew nothing then of the errors in the coast. It,' is satisfactory now to find that my astronomical observiitions correspond with those previously made by Beechy and Belcher, and ver^ gratifying to be able 10
*NA.VAL.—The United S-ales sloop-of-war Portsmouth, Commander John B. Montgomery, arrived ac Boston on Friday, from the Pticific ocean, lust from Valparaiso, February 23; Commander Montgomery states that, the British frigate t1 HerakI," and the brig "Pandora," are eo-gaa'ed in making a new survey of theguir and coast of California.
•The whale ship "Mope," of Providence, was recently lost on the coast, in conaequgnce of an error in the charts now in general use, which locale the coast and islands from Moaterey lo cape St. Lucas from 15 to 40 miles too far to the eastward —^''utional Intelligfncer.
t0f this skilful, intrepid, and unfortunate navigator) Humboldt (Essay on .New Spain) says;
"The peculiar merit ot'his expedition consists not only in the number of astronomical observations but principally in the judicious method which was employed to arrive at certain re. /aulLe. The longitude and latitude of four points on the coast (Cape San Lucas, Monterey, aooiita, and Fon Mulgrave,) were fixed in an absolute manner."
6 Mis. No. 5.
' ^ir ^ •
add some testimonial to the correctness of those, made by Malaspma long-before either of them. Vancouver removed the coast line as fixed by
Malaspina, and the subsequent observations carry it back.
In laying this map before the SenatP, and in aniicipaiioi'i of the mil
work which my explorations (with some further examinations) may enable me lo draw up hereafter, I deem it a proper accompaniment to the map to present some brief notices of CALIFORNIA, with a view^o show th& character of the country, and its capability or otherwise to,sustairi a considerable population. In doing this, no general rei-narks applicable tu the whole of California can be used. The diversity in difftireiu parts is too great to admit of generalization in the description. Separate views of different parts must be taken ; and in ihis brief sketch, the design is to limit the view to the two great divisions of the country which tie on the-opposite sides of the SIERRA NEVADA, and to the character of that mountain itself, so prominent in the structure of the country, and exercising so great an influence over the climate, soil, and, productions of its two divisions.
SIERRA NEVADA.
This SIERRA is part of the great mountain range, which, underdifferent names and with dinerent elevations, but with much uniformhy of direction and general proximity to the coast, exiends from the peninsula of California 10 Russian America, and without a gap in the distance through which the water of the Rocky mountnins could reach the. Pacific oce?in, except at the two places where the Cotnmbiii and Frazer's river respectively find their passage.. This great range is remarkable for its length, its proxitiiity and parallelism to .the seacoasi, its great elevation, often more lofty than. ihe Rocky mountains, and its many grand volcanic peaks, reaching high into the region of perpetual snow. Rising singly, like pyramids, from heavily timbered plateanx, to the height of fourteen and seventeen thousand feet above the sea, these snowy peaks constitute the characterizing feature of the range, and distinguish ii from. the Rocky mountains and ail others on our part of the cont]i;e!it.
That part of this ranee which traverses the ALT.\ CALIFORNIA is called tlie Sir.rra Nevada, (Snowy mountain)—a name in itself implying a great elevation, as it is only applied, in Spanish geography, to the mountains whose summits penetrate the legion of perpetual snow. It is a grand feature of California, and a dominating one, and n,ust be wuti understood before the structure of the country ti"nd the character of irs different divisions can be comprehended, it divides California inio two parts, and exercises a decided influence on the chni.Uf1, soil, nnd productions of each. Stretching along the coast, and at the general distance of 151* miles from it, ttys great mountain wall receives the, warm winds, chained with vapor which sweep across the Pacific ocecni, precipitates their accumulated mois.-' ture in fertilizing rains and snows upon its western flank, and leaves cold
and dry winds to pass nn to the cast. Hfiir-o the cliarai:terislic differences of the two regions—milJiie. s, feriitily, and a superli vegetable kingdom on one side, coiiipi-irative barrenness and cold 011 the oilier.
The two sides of tliti Sierra exiiitm l\vo divine! dimmes'. The state of vegetation, in connexion wuli yoniti tlicrmoinetiicul oliservatious made during the recent exploring expedinon to Culilurma, will establish and
Mis. No. 5. 7
illustrate this difference. In the beginning of December. 184^, we crossed this Sierra, at latitude 39° 17' 12", at the present usual emigrant; pass, at the head of the Salmon Trout river, 4U miles north of New Helvetia, and made observations at each base, and in the same latitude, to determine the respective temperatures; the two bases being, respectively, the west-ern about 500. and the eastern about 4,000 feet above the level of the sea;
and the Pass, 7,200 feet. The mean results of the observations were, on. the eastern side, at sunrise, 9°; at noon, 44°; at sunset, 30°; the state of vegetation and the appearance of the country being at the same time (second week,of December) that of confirmed winter—the rivers frozen over,, snow on the ridges, annuiil plants dead, grass dry, and deciduous trees stripped of their foliage. At the western base, the mean temparature during a corresponding week was, at sunrise 29°, and at sunset 52° , the state of the atmosphere and of vegetation that of advancing spring; grass fresh and green, four to eight inches high, vernal plants in bloom, the air soft, and all the streams free from ice. Thus December on one side of the mountain was winter, on. the other it was spring.
THE GREAT BASIN.
1
East of the Sierra Nevada, and between it and the Rocky mountains, is that anomalous feature in our continent, the CHEAT BASIN, the existence of which was advanced as a theory after the second expedition, and is now established as a geographical fact. It is a singular feature :
a basin of some five hundred miles diameter every way, between four and. five thousand feet above the level of the sea, shut in all around by mountains, with its own system of lakes and rivers, and having no connexion whatever with the sea. Partly arid and sparsely inhabited, the general character of the, GREAT BASIN is that of desert, but with great exceptions, there being many parts of it very fit for the residence of a civilized people; and of these parts, the Mormons have lately established themselves in one of the largest and best. Mountain is the predominating structure of the interior of the Basin, with plains between—the mountains wooded and watered, the plains arid and sterile. The interior mountainu conform to the law which governs the course of the Rocky mountains and of the Sierra Nevada, ranging nearly north and south, and present a very uni-fonn character of abruptness, rising suddenly from a narrow base often to twenty, miles, and attaining an elevation of two to five thousand feet above the level of the country. They are grassy and wooded, showing snow on their summit peaks during the greater part of the year, and affording small streams of water from five to fifty feet "wide, which lose themselves, some intakes, some in the dry plains; and some in the belt of alluvial soil at the base; for these mountains have very uniformly this belt of alluvion, the, wash and abrasion of their sides, rich in excellent grass, fertile, and light, and loose enough to absorb small streams. Between, these mountains are the arid plains which receive and deserve the name of desert. Such is the general structure of the interior of the Great Basin,
0 1
more Asiatic than American in ils character, and much resembling the elevated region between the Caspian sea and northern Persia. The rim of this Basin is massive ranges of mountains, of which the Sierra Nevada on the west, and the Wah satch and Timpanogos chains on the east, are the most conspicuous. On the north it is separated from the waters
g Mis. No. 5.
of the Columbia by a Erawch efthe Rocky mountains, and from the guK of California, on the. south, by a bed of mountainous ranges, of which the existence has been only recently determined. Snow abounds on them all; on some, in their loftier pans'the whole year, with wood and grass;
wilh.copious streams of water, sometimes amounting to considerable rivers,
flowing inward, and forming Likes or sinking in the sands. Belts or benches of good alluvion are usually found at their base. •
Lakes in the Great Basin.—The great Salt lake and the Utah lake are in this Basin, towards its eastern rim, and constitute its most interesting feature—one, a saturated solution of common salt, the other fresh—the Utah about; one hundred feet above the level of the Salt lake-, which is itself four thousand two hundred above the level of the.sea, and connected by a strait, or river, thirty five miles long.
These lakes drain an area of ten or twelve thousand square miles, and.
have, on the east, along the base of the mountain, the usual bench of al-
? - W' M « ^
Tavion, which extends to a distance of three hundred miles, with wood and water, and abundant grass. The Mormons have established themselves on the btrait between these two lakes, and'will find sufficient arable land for a large settlement—important from its position as intermediate between th*e Mississippi valley and the Pacific ocean, and on the line of communication to California and Oregon.
The Utah is about thirty-five miles long, and is remarkable for the numerous and bold streams which it receives, coming down from the mountains on tlie southeast, all fresh water, although a large formation of rock salt, imbedded in red clay, is found within the area on the south-east, which it drains. The lake and its affluents afford large .trout and other fish in great numbers, which constitute the food of the Utah Indians during the fishing season. The Great Salt lake has a very irregu-Jar outline, greatly extended at time of melting snows. It rs about seventy miles in length ; both lakes ranging nearly north and south, in conformity to the range of the mountains, and is remarkable for its predominance of salt. The whole lake waters seem thoroughly saturated with it, and every evaporation of the water leaves salt behind- The rocky shores of the islands are whitened by the spray, which leaves salt on everything it touches, and a covering like ice forms over the water, which the waves throw among the rocks. The shores of the lake in the dry season, when the waters recede, and especially on the south side are'whitened with encrustations of fine white Scilt; the shallow arms of the lake, at the same time, under a slight covering of briny water, present beds of salt for miles, resembling softened ice, into which tlie horses' feet sink to the fetlock. Plants and buslies, blown by the wind upon these fields, are entirely en-crHSted with crystallized salt, more than an inch in thickness. Upon this lake of salt the fresh water received, though great in quantity, has no preceptible effect. No fish, or animal life of any kind is found in it;
the larvce. on the shore bying found to belong to winged insects. A geological examination of the bed and shores ol Uns lake is of the highest interest. °
Five gallons of water taken from this lake in the month of September, and roughly evaporated over a fire, gave fourteen pints of salt, a part of which being subjected to analysis, gave [lie following proportions :
Mis. No. 5. 9
97.80 parts.
0.61 "
0.24 "
0.23 f
1.12 «
Chloride of sodium (common salt) Chloride of calcium Chloride of magnesium Sulphate of soda
Sulphate of lime
100.00
Southward from the Utah is another lake, of which little'more is now-known than when Humboldt published his general map of Mexico. It is the reservoir of a handsome river about two hundred miles long, rising in the Wah-satch mountains, and discharging a considerable volume of
^^^•_, ' ^^^^ ^'"^~ _,
water. 1 he river and lake were called by the Spaniards Severn, corrupted by the hunters into Sevier. On the map they are called Nicollef^ in honor of J. N. NicoUef,\vbose premature death interrupted the publication of the learned work on the physical geography of the basin of the Upper Mississippi, which five years labor in the field had prepared him to give.
On the western side ot the basin, anQ immediately within the first range of the Sierra Nevada, is the Pyramid lake. receiving the water of Salmon Trout river. It is thirty five miles long, between four and five thousand feet above the sea, surrounded by mountains, is remarkably deep and clear, and abounds with uncommonly large salmon trout. Southward, along the base of the Sierra Nevada, is a range of considerable lakes, formed by many large streams from the Sierra. Lake Walker, the largest among these, affords great numbers of trout, similar to those' of the Pyramid lake, and is a place of resort for Indians in the fishing season. /
There are probably other collections of water not yet known.' The number of small lakes is very great, many of them more or less salty, and all, like the rivers which feed them, changing their appearance and extent under the influence of the season, rising with the melting of the snows, sinking in the dry weather, and distinctly presenting their high. and low water mark. These generally afford some ferule and well-watered
land, capable of settlement.
Rivers of the Great Basin.—The most considerable river ip the interior of (he Great Basin, is the one called on the map Humboldt river, as the mountains at its head are called Humbotdt river mountains—so called. as a small mark of respect to the t( Nestor of scientific travellers^ who has done so much to illustrate North American geography, without leaving' his name upon any one of its remarkable features. It is a river long known to hunters, and sometimes sketched on maps under the name of Mary's, or Ogden's, but. now, for the first time, laid down with any precision. It is a very peculiar stream, and jias many characteristics of an Asiatic river—the Jordon, for example, though twice as long—rising in mountains and losing itself in a lake ot its own, after a long and solitary course. It rises in two streams in mountains west of the Great Salt take, which unite, after some fifty miles, and bears westwardly along the northern side of the basin towards the Great Sierra Nevada, which it is destined never to reach, much less to pass. The mountains in which it rises are round and handsome in their outline, -capped with snow the greater part of the year, welt clothed with grass and wood, and abundant in water. The stream is a narrow line without affluents, losing by ab-
Mis. No. 5.
Fiitil the middle of the month the weather remained fair and very nieasant On the 15th, it began to rain in occasional showers, which whitened with snow the tops of the mountains on the southeast side of the lake valley. Flowers were in bloom during all the., month. About the 18th on one of the large islands in the south of the lake, heh-anthvs several 'species of aster, erodwm cicutarium, and several other
plants 'were in fresh and full bloom; the grass of the second growth was coming up finely, and vegetation, geneTally,betokened the lengthened
slimmer of the climate. The»16th, 17th, and 18th, stormy with rain ; heavy at night; peaks of
the Bear river range and tops of the mountains covered with snow. On the 18th, cleared with weather like that of late spring, and continued mild and clear until the end of the month, when the fine weather was again interrupted by a day or two of rain. No snow within 2,UOO feet
about the level of the valley.
Across the interior, between latitudes 41° and 38°, during the month of .November, (5th to 25th,) the mean temperature was 29° at sunrise, and 40° at sunset, ranging at noon (by detatehed observations) between 41° and 60°. There was a snow storm between the 4th and 7th, the ' snow falling principally at night, and sun occasionally breaking out in the day. The lower hills and valleys were covered a few inches deep with snow, which the sun carried off in a few hours after the storm was over.,
The weather then continued uninterruptedly open until the close of the year without rain or snow ; and during the remainder of November generally clear and beautiful; nights and mornings calm, a light breese during the lay,and strong winds of very rare occurrenee. Snow remained'only on the peaks of the mountains.
On the western side of the basin, along the base of the Sierra Nevada, during the two weeks, from the 25lh November to the llth December^ • the mean temperature at sunrise was 11°, and at sunset 34° ; ranging at sunrise from zero te 21°, and at sunset from 23° to 44°. For ten consecutive days of the same period/the mean temperature "at noon was 45°, ranging from 33° to 56°,
The weather remained open, usually very clear, and' the rivers were frozen.
The winter of ^-^ within the basin, was remarkable for the same open, pleasant weather, rarely interrupted by rain or snow. In fact there is nothing in the climate of ihis great interior region, elevafed as it is, and surrounded and traversed by snowy mountains, to prevent civilized man from making it his home, and finding^n its arable parts the means of a comfortable subsistence ; and this the Mormons will probably soon prove in the parts about the Great Salt lake. The progress of their settlement is already great. On the first of April of the present year, they had 3,000 acres in wheat,,seven saw and grist mills, seven hundred houses
in a fortified enclosure of sixty acres, stock, and other accompaniments of a nourishing settlement.
Such is the Great Basin, heretofore characterized as a desert, and in some respects meriting that appellation ; but already demanding the qualification of great exceptions, and deserving ^G full examination of a thorough exploration.
Mis. No. 5. 13
MARITIME REGION WEST OF THE SIERRA NEVADA.
WEST of the SIERRA NEVADA, and between that naountain and the sea,
b _ ^^ » •
is the second grand division of California, and the only part to which the name applies in llie current language of the country. It is the occupied and inhabited part, and so different in character—so divided by the mountain wall ot the Sierra from the Great Basin above—as to constitute a region to itself, with a structure and configuration—a soil, climate, and pro-dnctiins—of its own ; and as northern Persia may be referred to as some type of the former, so may Italy be referred to as some point of comparison for the latter. North and south, ihis region embraces about ten da-gress of latitude—from 32°, where it touches the peninsula of California, to 42°, where it bounds to Oregon. East and west from the Sierra Nevada to the sea, it will average, in the middle parts, 150 miles; in the northern parts 200—giving an area of above one hundred thousand square .miles. Looking westward from the summit of the Sierra, the main feature presented is the long, low, broad valley of the Joaquin and Sacramento rivers—the two valleys forming one—five hundred miles long and fifty broad, lying along the base of the Sierra, and bounded to the west by the low coast range of mountains, which separates it from the sea. Long dark lines of timber indicate the streams, and bright spots mark the intervening plains. Lateral ranges, parallel (o the Sierra Nevada and the coast, make the structure of the country and break it into a surface of valleys and mountains—the valleys a few hundred, and the mountains two to four thousand feet above the sea. These form greater masses, and become more elevated in the north, where some peaks, as the Shasti, enter the regions of perpelual snow. Stretched along the mild coast of the Pacific, With a general elevation in its plains and valleys of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea, and backed' by the long and ^lofty wall of the Sierra, mildness and geniality may be assumed as the characteristic of its climale. The inhabitant of corresponding latitudes on, the Atlantic side of this continent can with difficulty conceive of the soft air and southern productions under the same latitudes in the maritime region of Upper California. The singular beauty and purity of the sky in the south of this region is characterized by Humboldt as a rare phenomenon, and all travellers realize the truth of his description.
The present condition of the country affords but slight data for forming Correct opinions of the agricultural capacity and fertility of the soil. Vancouver found at the mission of San Buenaventura, in 1792, latitude 34° 16', apples, pears, plums, figs, oranges,, grapes, peaches, and pomegranates gro-.ving together with th& plantiiin,. banana, cocoa nut, sugar cane, and indigo, all yielding fruit in abundance and of excellent quality. Huniboldt mentions the olive oil of California as equal to that of Andalusia, and the wine like that of the Canary islands. At present but little remains of the high and various cultivation -which had been attained at the missions. Under the mild and paternal adtninistralien of the " FalheTs^ the docile character of^the Indians was made available for labor, and thousands were employed, in the fields, the orchards, and the vineyards. At present but little of this former cultivation is seen. The fertile valleys are overgrown with wild mustard; vineyards and olive orchards decayed and neglepted, are among the remaining vestiges; only
in some places do we-see the evidences of what.the country is capable.
Mis. No. 5.
At San Buenaventura we found the olive trees, in January, bending under the weight of neglected fruit ; and the mission of fcan Luis Ubispo (latitude 35°) is still distinguished for the excellence of its olives, considered finer and larger than those of the Mediterranean.
The productions of the south differ from those of the north and of the middle Grapes, olives, Indian corn, have been its staples, with many assimilated fruits and grains. Tobacco has been recently introduced ; and the uniform summer heat which follows the wet season, and is uninterrupted by rain, would make the southern country well adapted to cotton. Wh'eat is the first product of the north, where it always constituted the principal cultivation of the missions. This promises to be the grain growing region of California. The moisure of the coast seems panicu-larly suited to the potato and to, the vegetables common to the United
Stales, which grow to an extraordinary si^e.
Perhaps few parts of the world can procfuce in such perfection so great a variety of fruits and grains as the large and various region'enclosing the bay of San Francisco and drained by its waters. A view of the map will show that region and its great extent, comprehending the entire valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and the whole western slope of the Sierra Nevada. General phrases fail to give precise ideas, and I have recourse to the notes in my journal to show its climate and productions by the test of the thermometer and the state pf the vegetable kingdom*
VALLEYS OF THE SACRAMENTO AND SAN JOAdUIN. \
These valleys are one, discriminated only by the names of the rivers which traverse it. It is a single valley—a single geographical formation—near 500 miles long, lying at the western base ot the Sierra Nevada, and between it and the coast range of mountains- and stretchine; across
/ i^J ' ^^
the head of the bay of San Francisco, with which a delta of twenty-five miles connects it. The two rivers, Sail Joaquin and Sacramento, rise at opposite ends of this long valley, receive numerous streams,manyofthem bold rivers, from the Sierra Nevada, become themselves navigable rivers, flow toward each other, meet half way, and enter the bay ot San Francisco together, in the region of tidewater, making a continuous water line from one end to the other.
The valley of San Joaquin is about 300 miles Ions: and 60 broad, between the slopes of the coast mountain and the Sierra Nevada, with a general elevation of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea. It presents a variety of soil, from dry and unproductive to well watered and luxuriantly fertile. The eastern (which is the fertile) side of the valley-is intersected with numerous streams, forming large and very beautiful bottoms of fertile land, wooded principally with white oaks {quercus lon^-' iglanda, Torr. and Frem.) in open groves of handsome trees, often five or six feet in diameter, and sixty to eighty feet high. Only the larger streams, which are fifty to one hundred and fifty yards wide, and drain the upper parts of the mountains, pass entirely across the valley, forming the Tulare lakes and the San Joaquin river, which, in the rainy season, make a continuous stream from the head of the valley to the bay. The foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, which limit the valley, make a woodland
country, diversified-with undulating grounds and pretty valleys, and watered with numerous small streams, which reach only a few miles be-
Mis. No. 5.
15
yond the hills, the springs which supply them not being copious enough to carry them across the plains. These afford many advantageous spofs for farms, making sometimes large bottoms of rich moist land. The rolling surface of the hills presents sunny exposures, sheltered from the
winds, and having a highly favorable climate and suitable soil,, are considered to be well adapted to the cultivation of the grape, and will probably become the principal vine growing region of California. The uplands bordering the valleys of the large streams are usually wooded wuh evergreen oaks, and the intervening plains are timbered with groves-or belts of evergreen and white oaks among prairie and open land. The surface of the valley consists of level plains along the Tulare lake;? and San. Joaquin river, changing into undulating and rolling ground nearer the foot hills of the mountains.
A condensed notice from observations, made during several journeys through the valley, will serve to give some definite ideas of its climaie and character.
We left the upper settlements of New Helvetia on the 14th December, and passing through the groves of oak which border the Rio de log Americanos, directed our course in a southeasterly direction across a plain toward the Rio de los Cos um-nes, a handsome, well wooded stream, about thirty yards wide.' The Cos-um-ne Indians, who gave name to this river, have been driven away from it within a few years, and dispersed among other tribes; and several farms, of some leagues in extent, lave already been established on the lower part of the stream. We encamped at one of these, about eight miles above the junction of the Cos-' um-ne river with the Mo-kel-um-ne, which a few miles below enters a deep slough in the tide water of the San Joaquin delta.
At this place the temperature at sunset was 55°, and at sunrise 27°.
Our road on the 15[h was over the plain between the Cos um-ne and Mo-kel um-noi rivers, inclining toward the mountains. We crossed
Jhi •^^~
several wooded sloughs, with ponds of deep water, which, nearer the foot hills, are running streams, with large bottoms of fertile land; the greater part of our way being through open woods of evergreen and other oaks. The rainy season which commonly begins with November, had not yet commenced, and the Mo kel.um-ne river was'at the low stage usual to the dry season, and easily forded. This 'stream is about sixty yards wide, and the immediate valley soine thirty or forty feet below the upland plain. It has broad alluvial bottoms of very fertile soil, sometimes five hundred yards wide, bounded by a low upland, wooded with evergreen oaks. The weather, in the evening- was calm, the sky mottled with clouds, and the temperature at sunset 52°.
Leaving the Mo-kel-um-ne, (December 16,) we travelled about twenty miles through open woods of white oak, crossing in the way several stream beds, among them the Calaveras creek. These have abundant water with good land above; and the Calaveras makes some remarkably handsome bottom?. Issuing from "the woods, we rode about sixteen miles over an open prairie, partly covered with. bunch grass, the timber reappearing on the rolling hills of the river Stanislaus in the usual -belt of evergreen oaks The-river valley was about forty feet below the upland, and^he stream seventy yards broad, making the usual fertile bottoms, •which here were covered with green grass among large oaks. We encamped in one of these bottoms, in a grove of the large white oaks previously
J^Q Mis. No. 5.
, mentioned as^-^^^ ^f^ d^t^^^
^Sof t 'S^i^^ommonly an inch and a handsome. inies^^^^^^ This long acorn charaptenzes the tree, which has ac-
cSsly been specified by Ur Torrey as WTC.US lonffiglanda-^s-apnrn oak ^ The tree attains frequently a diameter of six feet, and a
heioht of'eiehty feet, with a wide spreading head. The many varieties of deciduous and evergreen oaks, which predominate through the valleys and lower hills of the mountains, afford large quantities of acorns, which
•onstitutes the principal food of the Indians of that region. Their great abundance, in the midst of fine pasture lands, must make them an important element in the agricultural economy of the country.
The day had been very warm, and at sunset tbe temperature ivas
55°, and the weather clear and calm.,
- At sunrise next morning, the thermometer was at 22°, with alight wind
from the Sierra, N. 75° E., and a clear pure sky, in which the blue line of the mountain showed distinctly. The way for about three miles was through open woods of evergreen and other oaks, with some shrubbery intermingled. Amoiag this .was alupinus of extraordinary size, not yet in bloom. Emerging from the woods, we travelled in a southeasterly direction, over a prairie of rolling land, the ground becoming somewhat more broken as we approached the To-wal-nm-ne river, one of the finest tributaries of the San Joaquin. The hills were generally covered with a species ofgeranium, (erodium czcutarium^j a valuable plant for stock, considered very nutritious. With this was frequently interspersed good and green bunch grass, and a plant commonly called bur clover. This plant, which in some places is very abundant, bears aspirrally twisted pod, filled. with seeds, which remains on the ground during the dry season, well preserved, and affords good food for cattle until the spring rains bring out new grass. We started a band of wild horses on approaching the river, and the Indians ran off fro ma village on the bank—zhemen lurking round to observe us. About their huts were the usual acorn cribs, containing each some twenty or thirty bushels. We found here excellent grass, and broad bottoms of alluvial land, open-wooded, with large white oaks of the new species. The thermometer, at sunset, was at 54°-5, with a calm, clear atmosphere. Multitudes of geese and other wildfowl made the night noisy.
In the morning, the sky was clear with an air from S. 55 E , and a hoar frost covering the. ground like a light fall of snow. At sunrise, the thermometer was at 24°.5. Our course now inclined more towards the foot of the mountain, and led over a broken country. In about 17 miles we
reached the river Aux-um-ne, anotherlarge affluent to the San Joaquin, and continued about six miles up the stream, intending to reach gradually the heart of the mountains at the head of the Lake Fork of the Talari.
We encamped on the southern side of the river, where broken hills made a steep bluff, with a narrow bottom. On the northern side was a low
undulating wood and prairie land, over which a band of about three hun.
•The names of plants mentioned in this memoir real on the authority of Dr. Torrey, by whom the specimens have been examined.
Mis. No. 5. . 17
«
Sredelk was slowly doming to water where we halted, feeding as they approached.
December 19/A. The weather continued clear and pleasant. We continued our journey in a southeasterly direci.ion, over a broken and^hilly country, without timber, and showing only scatiei-ed clumps of trees, from which we occasionally started deer. In a few hours' ridewe reached
a beautiful couniry of undulating upland, openly timbered with oaks, principally evergreen, and watered with small streams. We came here
among some villages of Indians, of the horse-ihief tribes, who received us in an unfriendly manner; and after a busy night among them, we retreated the next morning to the more open country of the lower hills. Our party was then a small one of It) men, encumbered with cattle, which we were driving to the relief of the main body of the expedition, which had been sent south ward from Walker^ lake in the basin, along the eastern base of tiie. Sierra Nevada, and to which a valley in the mountain, on the Tu-lare Lake Fork, had been appointed as a place of meeting.
In tho evening, we encamped at an elevation of 1,01)0 feet above the sea, latitude 37° U7' 47", still among the hills, on a spring hollow, leading to the Upper Joaquin river. The day had been mild, with a faint sun and cloudy weather; and at sunset, there were some light clouds in the sky, with a northeasterly wind, and a sunset temperature of 45°; probably rendered lower than usual by the air from the mountains, as the foot-hills have generally a warmer temperature than the open valley. Elk were numerous during the day, making, on one occasion, a broken band several
miles in length.
On the 2lst the thermometer at sunrise was 32°. 6 ; the sky slightly clouded, and in the course of the morning, the clouds gathered heavy in the southwest. Our route lay in a southeasterly direction, toward the Upper Joaquin, crossing, among rolling hills, a large stream and several sandy beds of affluents to the main river. On the trees along these streams, as well ason the hills, I noticed mosses. About2in the afternoon we reached the upper San Joaquin. The stream was here about 70 yards wideband much too deep to be forded, A little way below, we succeeded in crossing, at a rapid made by a bed of rock, below which, for several
miles, t-he river appeared deep and not fordabie. We followed down the stream for six or eight miles, and encamped on its banks, on the verge of the valley plain. At evening rain began to fall^and with this, the spring properly commenced. There had been a little rain in November, but not
sufficient to revive vegetation.
December 22.—The temperature at sunrise was 39°. There had been
heavy rain during the night, with high wind, and this morning, there was a thick fog, which began to go off at 8 o'clock, when the sun broke through. We crossed an open plain, still in a southeasterly direction, reaching, in about twenty miles, the Tulares Lnke river. This is one of the largest and handsomest steams in the valley, being about 100 yards broad, and having perhaps, a larger body of fertile land than any other. The broad alluvial bottoms are well wooded with several species of. oaks. This is the principal affluent to the Tular6 lake, (the buLlrush lake,)'a strip of water about 70 miles Ion?, surrounded by low lands, rankily overgrown with bullrushes, and receiving all- the rivers in the southern end of the valley. In limes of hig'i water, tl'e lake discharges into the
2
J
1g . Mis. No. 5.
Joaquin making a continuous wnter line* through Ihe whole extent of the
^^ ^ ^^
^'ascended this river to its sources in the Sierra Nevada about 50 we ascenueu ^ ^ reached again on the 7th of
^at^Tn^^^^^ ^e bke- we ^ thetem-npraturemuch the same as in December. Fogs, which rose from the lake
In the mornine, were dense, cold, and penetrating, but after a few hours cave place to a'fine day. The face of the country had been much improved by the rains which had fallen while we remained in the mountains. Several humble plants, among them the golden-flowered violet (viola crvsantha) and erodium cicutarium, the first valley flowers of the spring, which courted a sunny exposure and warm sandy soil, were already in bloom on the southwestern hill slopes. In the foothills of the mountains the bloom of the flowers was earlier. We travelled among multitudinous herds of elk, antelope, and wild horses. Several of the latter, which we killed for food, were found to be very fat. By the middle of January, when we had reached the lower San Joaquin, the new green grass covered the ground among the open timber on the rich river bottoms, and the
spring vegetation had taken a vigorous start. The mean temperature in the Joaquin valley, during the journey, from
the middle of December to the middle of January, was at sunrise 29° and at sunset 52°, with generally a faint breeze from tlie snowy mountains in the morning, and calm weather at the evening. This was a lower temperature than we had found in the oak region of the mountains bordering the valley, between l,00(')and 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, where, throughout; California, I have remarked the spring to be more forward
than in the open valleys below.
During a journey through the valley, between the head of the Tulare lakes and the mouth of the San Joaqnin, from the- l9lh January to the 12th February, the mean temperature was 38° at sunrise; and 53" at sunset, with frequent rains. At the end of January, the river bottoms, in many places, were thickly covered with luxuriant grass more than half a foot high. The California poppy, {Es^hscholizia Oalifornica,) the characteristic plant of the California spring; memophila irtKiynis, one of the earliest flowers, growing in beautiful fields of a delicate blue, and erodium cicutarium^ were beginning to show a scattered bloom. Wild horses were fat, and a grisly bear, killed on the 2d February, had four inches thickness of fat on his back and* belly, and was estimated to weigh a thousand pounds. Salmon was first obtained on the 4th February in the To wal-um-ne river, which, according to the Indians, is the most southerly stream in the valley in which this fish is found. 13y'the middle of March, the "whole valley of the San Joaquin was in the full glory of spring; tlie evergreen oaks were in flower, geranium vicutarium was generally in bloom. occupying the place of the grass, and making on all the uplands a close sward. The higher prairies between the rivers presented unbroken fields of yellow and orange colored-flowers, varieties of hayia and Escks-c/iolizia Culifornica and large bouquets of the blue flowering nemop/iila nearer the streams. These made the prevailing bloom, and the sunny hill slopes to the river bottoms showed a varied growth of luxuriant flowers. Th« while oaks were not yet in blootn.
Otisftrvations made in Hie valley, from The bend of the Joaquin to the Loa um-ne river, give for the mean temperature, from Hie 10th to the 22d
Mis. No. 5.
19
March, 38° at sunrise, and 56° at sunset, the dew point being 35°.7 at sunrise, and 47°.G at sunset, and the quantity of moisture contained in a cubic foot of air being 2.712 grains, and 4.072 grains, respectively.
A sudden change in the temperature was remarked in passing from the To wiil-urn ne to the Stanislaus river, there being no change in ihe -weather, and the wind continuing from the northwest, to which we were more directly exposed on reaching the Stanislaus river, where we opened on tlie bay. In travelling down to the Stanislaus the mean temperature for five days (from the lith to the 16th) was 40°.3 at sunrise, 73" at 4
p. m., and 63° at sunset; and detached observations gave 66° at 9, a m., 77^ at noon, and 87° at 2, p. m.
The dew point was 3S°.0, 55°,5, 54°. 3 at su.nrise, at 4 in the afternoon, and at sunset; and the moisture contained IM a cubic foot of air 2.878 grains, 5.209 grains, and 4.927 grains, respectively.
North of the Stanislaus for five days (from l6lh to the 21st) the mean, was' 36° 6 at sunrise, 57° at 4, p m., and.49° at sunset. The dew point was 34°.9 at sunrise, 37°. 1 at 4, p.m., and 40°.9atsunset,and thequantity of moisture in a cubic foot of air 2.671 grains, 2.983 grains, and 3.216 grains at the corresponding times. At ?nnri?e of the l6lh, on the To-wal um ne, the thermometer was at 431:', and at sunrise of the next mom-in^ on the Stanislaus, at 35°.
The temperature was lowest on the night of the 17th. At sunrise of the morning following the thermometer was at 27°, and it was remarked that the frost affected several varieties of plants. On the 20th and 21st there were some showers of rain, the first since the end of February. These were preceded by southwesterly winds.
During December and the first part of January, which was still at the season of low-waters, we were easily able to ford all the Joaquin tributaries. These begin to rise with the rains, and are kppt up by the melting snows in the summer. At the end of January the Joaquin required boating throughout the valley, and the tributaries were forded with difficulty,
In the latter part of March, of a'dry season, (1844,) we were obliged to boat the Stanislaus, To-wal-um-ne, and Aux-um-ne, and the San Joaquin was no where fordable below the bend where it is joined by the slough of the Tulare lake. On the 13th of March, 1846, we were obliged to boat the San Joaquin, the river being no where fordable below the junction of the slough, and the Indians guided us to some difficult fords of the targe tributaries, where we succeeded to cross with damage to our equippage. In July of the same year, we boated the San Joaquin below the Aux-um-ne, it being no where fordable below the bend.
In June, 1847, the Joaquin was no where fordable, being severs! hundred yards broad as high up as the Aiix-uw-ne river, e^en with its banks, and scattered in sloughs over all its lower bottoms. All the large tributaries, the Aux-um. ne, To-wal-um-ne, Stanislaus, and Mo-kel-um-ne, required to be boated, and were pouring down a deep volume of water from (he mountains one to two hundred yards,wide. The high waters came from the melting snows, which during the past winter, had accumulated to a great depth in the mountains, and at the end of June, lay in the approaches to the Bear river pass/on a breadth of ten or fifteen miles and ihis below the level of7,20U feeL In rainy seasons, when the rains begin with November, and the snows lie on the mountains till July,
^^ 5
ft
^0 Mis. No. 5.
this river is navigable for eight months of the year-the length of dm®
' depending on the season. .
The Cos-um-ne was the last tributary of the San Joaqnin, and the lass
river of its valley coming down from the Sierra Nevada. The Rio de los - Americanos was the first tributary of the valley of the Sacramento, also comino- down, like all the respectable tributaries of both nvers, from the snowv^ummit and rainy sides of the great Sierra. The two valleys are one only discriminated in description or reference by the name of the nver whicia traverses the respective halves, as seen in the map. We entered the part of the valley which takes the name of its nver, Sacramento, on the 21st day of March, going north, and continued our observations on
that valley. - . . . We remained several days on the Rio de los Americanos to recrmtcw
animals on the abundant range between the Sacramento and the h?lls. During this time the thermometer was at 35° at sunrise, 54° at 9 o'clock in the morning, 63° at noon, 63° at 2 in the afternoon, 61° at 4, and 53^ at sunset; the dew point at corresponding times being 34°.0,'49C>.9, 46°6, 49° .4, 51°.6, 43°.7; and the quantity of moistare in a cubic foot of air being 2.519 grs., 4.235 grs., 3.808 grs., 4.361 grs., 4.484 grs.,
3.469 grs.
We left the Rio de los Amerieanos on the 24th, ten miles above the
mouth, travelling a little east of north, in the direction of the Bear river settlements, at the foot of the Emigrant Pass. The road led among oak timber, over ground slightly undulating, covered with grass intermingled. with flowers. The thermometer at 4 was 76°, and at sunset 60°; the weather clear.
At sunrise of the 2.5lh, the temperature was 36°, with an easterly wind ,and clear sky. In about thirty miles travel to the north, we reached the rancho of Mr. Keyser, on Bear river, an affluent to Feath'-r river, the largest tributary of the Sacramento. The route lay over an undulating country—more so as our course brought us nearer the mountains—wooded with oaks and shrubbery in blossom, with small -prairies intervening. Many plants were in flower, and among them the California poppy, unusually magnificent. It is the characterislic bloom of California at this season, and the Bear river bottoms near the hills were covered whh it. We crossed several smalt streams, and found the ground miry from the recent rains. The temperature at 4 in the afternoon was 70^, and at sunset 58'-', with an easterly wind, and the night bright and clear.
The morning of the y5th was dear, and warmer than usual; the wind southeasterly, and the temperature 4U°. We travelled across the valley-plain, and in about 16 miles reached Feather river at 26 miles from its junction with the Sacramento, near the mouth of tlie Yuvay so called from a village of Indians who live on it. The river has high banks—20 or 30 feet—and was here 150 yards wide, a deep navigable stream. The Indians aided us across the river with canoes and small raits. Extending along the bank in front of the village was a range of wicker cribs about twelve feet hig!i,,panly filled with what is there the Indian's staff of life—acorns. A collection of huts, shaped like beehives, with naked
Indians sunning themselves on the tops, and these acorn cribs are the prominent objects in an Indian village.
There is a fine farm, or rancho, on the Yuva, stocked with about 3,000 head of cattle, and cultivated principally in wheat, with some other grains
is. No. 5.
21
®tid vegetables, which are carried by means of the river to a market at San Francisco. JVlr. Cordua, a native of Germany, who is proprietor of the place informed me that his average harvest of wheat was about twenty-five bushels to the acre, which he supposed would be about the product of
the wheat lands in the Sacramento valley. The labor on this and other farms in the valley is performed by Indians.
The temperature here was 74°. at 2 in the afternoon, 71°. at 4, and 69°. at sunset, with a northeasterly wind and cleEir sky.
At. sunrise of the 27th the temperature was 42°,, clear, with a northeasterly wind. We travelled northwardly, up the ri"ht bank of the river,
1 4 1 ^ — - - "^J r
winch was wooded with large white and evergreen oaks, interspersed, with thickets of shrubbery in full bloom. We made a pleasant journey of twenty seven miles, and encamped at the bend of the river where it turns from the course across the valley to run southerly to iis junction with the Sacramento. The thermometer at sunset was at ti7°, sky partially -clouded, with southerly wind.
The thermometer at sunrise on the 28th was at 46°.5., with a northeasterly wind. The road was over an open plain with a few small sloughs or creeks that do not reach the river. After travelling about fifteen miles we encamped on Butts creek, a beautiful stream of clear water about fifty yards wide, with a bold current running all the year. It has large fertile bottoms; wooded with open groves, and having a luxuriant growth of pea vine among the grass. The oaks here were getting into general bloom. Fine ranches have been selected on both sides the stream and stocked with cattle, some of which were now very fat. A rancho here is owned by Neal, who formeily belonged to my exploring party. There is a rancheria (Indian village) near by, and some of the Indians gladly ran races for the head and offals of a fat cow which had been presented to us. They were entirely naked. The thermometer at 2 in the afternoon, was at 70°., two hours later at 74°., and 63°. at sunset, the wind east, and sky clear only in the west.
The temperature at sunrise the next day was 50°, with cumuli in the south and west, which left a clear sky at 9, with a northwest wind, and
^^ •• ^^*» ^
temperature of 64°. We travelled 20 miles,-and encamped on Pine creek, another fine stream, with bottoms of fertile land, wooded with groves of large and handsome oaks, some attaining to six feet in diameter, and forty to seventy feet in height. At 4 in the afternoon the thermometer showed 74° and 64° at sunset; and the sky clear, except in the
horizon.
March, 30.—The sun rose in masses of clouds over the eastern mountains, A pleasant morning, with a sunrise temperature of 46°.5, and some ?nosquiiOKS—never seen, as is said, in the coast country ; but at seasons of high water abundant and venomous in the bottoms of the .baquin and Sacramento. On the tributaries nearer the mountain but few are seen and those go with the; sun. . Continuins up the valley, we crossed in a, short distance a large wooded creek, having now 'about thirty-five feet breadth of water. Our road was over an upland prairie of the Sacraaiento, having a yellowish gravelly soil, generally two or three miles from the 3-iver and twelve or fifteen from the foot of the eastern mountains. On the west it was 25 or 30 miles to the foot of the mountains, which here make a bed of high and broken ranges. In the afternoon, about half a &aile above its mouth, WG encamped, on Peer creek, another of these beau-
22 ' • Mis. No. 5.
tiful tributaries to the Sacramento. It has the usual broad and fertr?e bottom lands common to these streams wooded with groves of oak and alaro-e sycamore, (platanus Occident aiis,) distinguished by bearing its balts^n strings of three to five, and peculiar to California. Mr. Lassen, a native of Germany, has established a rancho here, which he has stocked, and is gradually bringing into cultivation. Wheat, as generally throughout the north country, gives large returns; cotton, planted in rhe way of experiment, was nnt injured by frost, and succeeded well; and he has lately plained a vineyard, for which the Sacramento valley is considered lo be sino-uiariy well adapted. The seasons are not yet sufficiently understood, and* too little has been done in agriculture to afford certain knowledge of the-capacities of the country. This farm is in the 4Uth degree of latitude;
our position on the river being in 30°. 57'. 00''., and longnude \2\0.^''. 447. west from Greenwich, and elevation above the sea 5(50 feet. About three miles above the mouth of this stream are the first rapids—the pres.^ ent head of navigation—in the Siicramento river, which, from the rapids' to its month in the bay, is more than 200 miles long, and increasing in breadth from 150 yards to 600 yards in the lower part of its course.
During six days that we remained here, from the 30ih March to the 5th April, the mean temperature was 40° at sunrise, 52°.5. at 9 in the morning, 67°.2 at noon, 59°.4 at 2 in the afternoon, 58°.8 at 4, and 52° at sunset; at the corresponding times the dew point was at 37°-0, 4lu.0y 3S9 l^0^, 44° 9, 40°. 5; and the moisture in a cubic footofair2.S38grs., 3.179 grs., 2.935 grs., 3-0^4 grs., 3.766 grs., 3.150 grs., respectively. Much cloudy weather and some showers of rain, during this interval considerably reduced the temperature, which rose with fine weather OR the 5th. Salmon was now abundant in the Sacramento. Those which weobtained were generally between three and four feet in length, and appeared to be of two distinct kinds. It is said that as many as four different kinds ascend the river at diffeient periods. The great abundance in' which this fish is found gives it an important place among the resources of the country. The salmon crowd in immense numbers up the Umpqua, Tiamath, and Trinity rivers, and into every little river and creek on ihe coast north of the bay San Francisco, ascending the river Tiamath to the
lake near iis source, which is upwards of 4,000 feet above the sea, and distant from it only about 200 miles.
In the evening of the 5th we resumed our journey northward, and encamped on a little creek, near the Sacramento, where an emigrant from ^tlie States" was establishing himself, and had already built a house, li is a
handsome place, wooded with groves of oak, and alons the creek are
sycamore, ash, cottonwood, and willow. The day was fine, with a nonh-west wind.
The temperature at sunrise the next day, (April 6th,) was 42° with a Konheasterly wind. We columned up th^ Sacramenio, which we crossed in canoes at a farm on the right bank of thfi river. The Sacramento was
here about 140 yards wide, and with the actual stage of water which I was informed continued several months, navigable for a steamboat We
encamped a few miles above, on a creek wooded principally with large oaks. Grass was good and abundant, with wild oats and pea vine in Hie bottoms. 1 he day was fine, with a cool north west.rly breeze, which
^"^1 eall-oflheilig11 "^^ius. The wild oals here were not yet headed.
Mis. No. 5. 23
The snowy penfc of Shasfl bore directly north, showing out high above
the other mountains. Temperature at sunset 57°, with a west wind and sky partly clouded.
April 7.—The temperature at sunrise was 37°., with a moist air; and a faintly clouded sky indicated that the wind was southerly along the coast. We travelled toward the Shasti peak, the mountain ranges, on both sides of the Talleys being high and rugged, and snow-covered. Some remarkable peaks in the Sierra, to the eastward, are called the Sisters, aod,
nearly opposite, the Coast Range shows a prominent peak, which we have called Mount Linn.
Leaving the Sacramento, at a stream called Red Bank creek, and continuing t-) the head of one of its forks, we entered on a high and somewhat, broken'upland, limbered with at least four varieties of oaks, with mansani.ta [firbutus Menziesii) and other shrubbery interspersed. A remarkable species of pine, having leaves in threes, (sometimes six to nine inches long,) with bluish foilage, and a spreading, oak-shaped top, was scattered through the timber, i have remarked that this tree grows lower down the mountains than the other pines, being found familiarly associated with the oaks, the first met after leaving the open valleys, and seeming to like a warm climate. Flowers were as usual abundant. The splendid California poppy characterized all the route along the valley. A species of clover was in bloom, and the berries of the mansa-nita were beginning to redden on some trees, while on others they were still in bloom. We
F ••
encamped, at an elevation of about 1,000 feet above the sea, on a large stream called Cottonwood creek, wooded on the bottoms with oaks, and with coitonwoods along the bed, which is sandy and gravelly. The water was at this time about twenty yards wide, but-is irequentty fitly. The face of the country traversed during the day was gravelly, and the bottoms of the creek where we encamped have a sandy soil.
There are six or seven raiwherias of Indians on the Sacramento river between the farm where we ha^ crossed the Sacramento and the mouth of this creek, and many others ill the mountains about the heads of these
streams.
The next morning was cloudy, threatening rain, but the sky grew brighter as the sun rose, and a southerly wind changed to noithwest, which brought, as it never fails to bring, clear weather.
We continued 16 miles up the valley^ and encampted on the Sacramento river. In the afternoon (April 8) the weather again grew thick, and in the evening rain began to fall in the valley and snow on the mountains. We were now near the head ofihe lower valley, and t^e face of the country and the weather began sensibly to show the influence of the rugged
mountains which surround and terminate it.
The valley of the-Sacramento is divided into upper and iower—the
lower two hundred miles long, the upper about one hundred ; and the latter not merely entitled to the distinction of upper, as being higher up on the river, but also as having a superior elevation of some thousands of feet above it. Tlie division is strongly and geographically marked. The Shasti peak stands at the head of the lower valley,in the forks of ihe river, risi no-from a base of about 1,000 feet, out of a forest of heavy timber. It ascends like an immense column upwards of 14,000 feet, (nearly the 4rom favorable points of view, at a distance of 140 miles down the valley.
' bight of Mont lilanc,) the summit glistening with snow, and visible,
'.. '-•-"/'
. No. 5.
The river herein-descending from the upper valley, plunges down tfcroueh a COTOOW, falling 2,000 feet in twenty m^es. This upper valley is one hundred miles long, heavily timbered, the climate and productions modified by MS altitude, its more northern position, and the proximity and elevation of the neighboring mountains covered with snow It contains vallevs of arable land, and is deemed capable of settlement -Added to ihe lower valley ^ it makes the whole valley of the Sacramento 300 miffs long.
April 9—At 10 o'clock the rain which commenced the previous even-ins had ceased, and the clouds clearing away, we boated the r_yer;and continued our journey eastward toward the foot of the Sierra. 1 he Sac-. ramento bottoms here are broad and prettily wooded, with soil of a sandy character. Our way led through very handsome, open woods, principally of oaks, mingled with a considerable quantity of the oak.shaped pine. Interspersed among these were bouquets or thickets of mansanUz,. and an abundant white-flowering shrub, now entirely covered with small blossoms. The head of the valley here (lower valley) is watered by many small streams, having fertile bottom lands, with a good range ofgruss and acorns. In about six miles we crossed a creek 2i» or 25 feet wide, and several miles ianher descended into the broad bottoms of a swift, stream about 20 yards wide, called Gow creek, so named as being the range of a small band of cattle, which ran off here from a party on their way to Oregon. They are entirely wild, and are hunted like other game. A '•lar-ge band of antelope was seen in the timber, and five or" six deer came darting through the woods. An antelope and several deer were killed. There appeared to be two species of these deer—both of the kind generally called black-tailed ; one, a larger species frequenting the prairies and lower grounds; the other, much smaller, and found in the mountains only. The mountains in the northeast were black with clouds when we reached the creek, and very soon a fierce hail storm burst down on us, scattering our animals and covering the ground an inch in depth with hailstones about the size of wild cherries.. The face of the country appeared as whitened by a fall of snow, and ihe weather became unpleasantly cold. The evening closed in with rain, and thunder rolling around the hills. Our elevation here was between I,d00 and 1,100 feet. At:
sunrise the'next morning the thermometer was at 33°. The surrounding mountains showed a continous line of snow, and the high peaks looked wintry. Turning to the southward, we retraced our steps down the valley, and reached Mr. Lassen's on Deer river, on the evening of the lUh. The Sacramento bottoms between Antelope and Deer river were covered with oats, which had attained their full height, growing as in sown fields. The country here exhibited the matuiiry of spring. The California poppy was everywhere farming seed pods, and many plants were in flower and seed together. Some varieties of'clover were just beginning to bloom. By the middle of the month the seed vessels of ihe California pnppy, which, from its characteristic abundance, is a prominent feature in the vegetation, had attained their full size ; but the seeds of this and many other plants, although fully formed, were still green colored, and not entirely ripe. At this time I obtained from the San Joa-quin valley seeds of the poppy and other plants, black and fully ripe, v^iile they still remained green in this pait of the Sacramento--the effect of a warmer chmale in the valley of the SanJoaquin. The mean lempenuure lor 14 days, from the lOili to the 24ih of April, was 43" at sunrise, 56" at
Mis. No. 5. 25
h
9 in the morning, 64° at noon, 66° at 2 in the afternoon, 69° at 4, and 58° at sunset, (latitude 40°) The thermometer ranged at sunrise from 38° to 51^ at 4 (which is the hottest of those hours of the day when the temperature was noted) from 53° to SS^and at sunset from 49° to 65^. The dew point was 40°.3 at sunrise. 47C.3 at 9 in the morning, 46°. 1 at noon, 49°.2at2in the afternoon, 49°.2 at 4, and 46°6 at sunset; and the quantity of moisture in a cubic foot of air at corresponding times was 3 104grs,3,882 grs,3.807 grs, 4.213 grs,4.217 grs,3.884 grs, respectively. The winds fluctuated between northwest and southeast, the temperature depending more upon the state of the sky than the direction of winds— a clouded sky always lowering the thermometer fifteen or twenty degrees in a short nme. For the greater number of the days above given the sky
was covered and the atmosphere frequently thick, with rain at intervals from the 19th to the 23d.
^ On the- 25th May we returned to this place (Lassen's) from an excur. sion to the Upper Sacramento. The plants we had left in bloom were now generally in seed; and many, including the characteristic plants, perfectly ripe. The mean temperature of a few days ending May, was 54°,7 at sunrise, 70°.6 at noon, and 67°3 at sunset. Travelling south uno the more open and wider part of the valley, where the bordering mountains are lower and showed less snow, the temperature increased rapidly. At the Buttes.—an isolated mountain ridge about six miles long and about 2,690 feet above the sea—the mornings-were pleasantly coot for a few hours, but before ten the heat of the sun became very great, though usually tempered by a refreshing breeze. The heat was usually greatest about four in the afternoon. The mean temperature from May 27th to June 6th, was 64°. at sunrise, 79°. at 9 in the morning, 86°. ^t noon ,90°. at 2 in the afternoon, 91°. at 4, and 80°. at sunset, ranging from 53°. to 79°, at sunrise, from 85°. to 98°. at four in the afternoon, and from 73°. to 89°. at sunset. The place of observation was at the eastern base of the Buttes^ about 800 feet above the sea, latitude 39° 12', and'one of the warmest situations in the Sacramento valley. 'At corresponding times the dew point was at 56°5, 62".4, 66°. 5: bS0^, 66°,6, 66°.9, and the quantity of moisture in a cubic foot of air 5.253 grs, 6.318 grs, 7.191 grs., 7.495 grs, 7.164 grs., and 7.269 grs., respectively. We feel the heat here more sensibly than at any oiher place where our journeying brought us in California. The hunters always left the camp before daylight, and were in by nine o'clock, after which the sun grew hot. Game was very fat and abundant; upwards of eighty deer, elk, and bear were killed in one morning. The range consisied of excellent grasses, wild oats in fields, red and other varieties of clover, some of which were now m mature seed and others beginning to flower. Oats were now drying in level places where exposed to the full influence of the sun, remaining green
hi moister places and on the hill slopes.
The mean temperature of the open valley between the Buttes and the
American fork from the 8th to the 2lst June, was 57°. at sunrise, 74° at nine in the morning, 85" at noon, 87° at two in the afternoon, 88°. at
four, and 77°. at sunset; ranging at sunrise from 51°. to 61°.; at 4 from 81°'to 97° and at sunset from 71°. to 85°. The dew point at corresponding times was 52°8, 5808,6201,660.8,620.5. 60°.7,and the quantity of moisture in a cubic foot of air being 4.085 grs., 5.709 grs., 6.32U
grs ,'.7,217 grs., 6.377 grs., 5.973 grs., respectively.
Mis. No. 5.
Western slope of the Sierra Nevada—The western flank of this Sierra belongs to the maritime region of California, and is capable of adding greatly to its value. IE is a long wide slope, timbered and grassy, with intervals of arable land, copiously watered with numerous and bold streams, and without the cold which its name and altitude might imply. In length it is the whole extent of the long valley at its base—five hundred miles. In breadth, it is from forty to seventy miles from the summit of the mountain to the termination of the foot hills in the edge of the valleys below, and almost the whole of it available for some useful purpose-timber, pasturage, some arable land, mills, quarries— and so situated as to be convenient for use, the wide slope of the mountain being of easy and practicable descent. Timber holds the first place in the advantages of this ylope, the whole being heavily wooded, first with oaks, which predominate to about half the elevation of the mountain; and then with pines, cypress, and cedars, the pines predominating ; and hence, called the pine region, as that below is called the oak region, though mixed with other trees. The highest summits of the Sierra are naked, massive granite rock, covered with snow, in sheltered places, all the year round. The oaks are several varieties of white and black oak, and evergreens, some of them resembling live oak. Of the white oak there are some new species, attaining a handsome elevation, upon a stem six feet in diameter. Acorns of uncommon size, and not bad taste, used regularly for food. by the Indians, abound on these trees, and wilt be of great value for stock. The cypiess, pine, and cedar, are between 1UO and 250 feet high, and five 10 twelve feet in diameter, with clean solid stems. Grass abounds on almost ail parts of the slope, except towards the highest summits, and is fresh antf green alt the year round, being neither killed by cold in the winter, nor dried by want of rain in the summer. The foot hills of the slope are sufficiently fertile and gentle to admit of good settlements ; while valleys, coves, beaches, and meadows of arable land are found throughout. Many of the numerous streams, some of them amounting to considerable rivers, which flow down the mountain side, make handsome, fertile valleys. All these streams furnish good water power. The climate in the lower part of the slope is that of constant spring, while above the cold is not in proportion to the elevation. Such is the general view of the western slope of the great Sierra ; hut deeming that all general views should rest upon positive data, I add some notes taken from actual observations ma^de in different ascents and descents in the winter and spring of 1845-4b,aud in different degrees of latitude, from 35° to 41°.
December 4, 1845 —Descent from the pass, at the head of Salmon Irout river, latitude 39-^ 17', elevation 7,300 feet. At 3 in the afternoon the temperature at 46°,St sunset 34°, at sunrise next morning ^2°; the sky perfectly clear; no snow in the pass, hut much on the mountain tops. Mere the present emigrant road now crosses. A fork of Bear river (a con. siaerable stream tributary to Feather river, which falls into the Sacramento) leads Irom the pass, and the road follows it; but finding this a ruggedi way we tamed to the youth, and encamped in a mountain mea-
tii.lo0^^00 sreen §:^ass• A yellow moss very abundant on the north sines ot ilie pines. •
nilipT7!66' 6-—rhe route was over good travelling around, through open
^sof'5!0;1/'^0^'leadillt? ^g6' affording an excellent road. A spe-^aar ( ifwya ^antea) occuned, often of extraordinary height
Mis. No. 5. 27
and si?e. Phius lambcTtiani was one of the most frequont trees, distinguished among cone-bearing tribes by the length of its cones, sometimes sixteen or eighteen inches long. The Indians eat the inner part of the nurr, and large heaps of them were seen where they had been col-lectecL Leaving the higher ridges, and gaining the smoother spurs, and descending about 4 UDU feet. the fyce of the country changed rapidly. 1 he country became low, rolling, and pretty ; the pines be^an to disappear, nnd varieties of oak, and principally an evergreen resembling live oak, became the predominating forest growth. These oaks bear great quantities of large acorns, the principal food of all the wild Indians. At a village ot a few huts which we came upon, there was a large supply of these acorns—eight or ten cribs of wicker work, containing nbout twenty bushels each. The best acorns are obtained from a large tree belonging to the division of white oaks, which is very abundant; and generally fofffis the groves oi\ the bottom lands of the streams—standing apart, with a clean yndergMwth of grass, giving them the appearance of cultivated parks. It is a noble forest irce, already mentioned as a new species, sixty to eighty fe^thigh, with a tufted summit of spreading branches, and frequently attains a diameter of six feet. The largest we measured reached eleven feet. The evergreen oaks generally have a low growth, with long
branches and spreading lops. Some of them are suitable for ship timber, and have already been used for that purpose.
At our evi-ning encampment of the 8th, which was at an elevation of five hundred feet above the sea, latitude 38° 53/, and distant from the seacoast about one hundred miles, the temperature at sunset was 48°, the sky cjear and calm, weather delightful, and the vegetation that of early spring. We were stilt upon the foot hills of the mountain, where the soil is sheltered by woods, and where rain falls much more frequently. than in the open Sacramento valley, near the edge of which we then were. I have been in copious, continuous rains of eighteen or twenty hour's duration in the oak region of the mountain, when not a drop fell in the valley below. Innumerable small streams have their rise and course through these foot hills, which never reach the river of the valley, but are absoibed in its light soil. The large streams coming from the upper parts of the mountain make valleys of their own, of fertile soil, covered with luxuriant grass and interspersed with groves. This is the general character of the foot hills throughout tne entire length of the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys—a broad belt of country, and probably des-tined to become a vine growing, as well as a grain and pastoral
country.
December 9._Entered the valley of the Sacramento. Fresh green.
grass for eight or ten miles into the valley, cattle feeding upon it, or lying nndp.r the shade of trees—the shade being pleasant to our own feelings. Further in towards llie middle of the valley, where the spring rains had not yet commenced, the country looked parched and dry, the grass eaten.
down by the cattle, which were quite fat and fine beef.
Ascent December and January, 1845-'46, latitude 37°. Entering the
mountain by the Rio H-iyes of Tulare lake, (December 24,) we found its seneral character very similar to what it .was in the more northern part' (latitude 39°,) the timber perhaps less heavy and more open, and the mountain eenerally more rough, extremely rocky in the upper parts, but wooded up to the granite ridges which compose us rocky eminences. At
28 Mis. No. 5-
the elevation of 3,500 feet the ridges were covered with oaks and.pines intermixed, and the bottom lands with oaks, coltonwood, and sycamores. Small varieties of evergreen oaks reached the observed height of 9;490 feet, at which elvevation pmus lambertiani, and other varieties of pine, fir, and cypress, were large and lofty trees. During the latter part of December .and first days of January, the average.temperature of the oak region,goin^ to about 5,000, feet above the sea, was at sunrise 34°.6', and at sunset 50°5'. In the piney region, between this height and.1,1UO feet,
the average at sunrise was 2S°.7', and at sunset 30°.4'. The lowest observed temperature was at sunset of January I, when the sky had entirely cleared after a severe snow storm. The thermometer then stood at 8°.5', the elevation above the sea being 9,400 feet. Descending to the oak re-
^^•- r J ^ • rf^
ginn,spring weather, rain and sunshine prevailed. At an elevation ot 4,500 feet the temperature, at the night encampment of the 3d day of January, was 38° at sunset, and the same at sunrise, the grass green,^ and growing freshly under the oaks. The snow line was then at about 6,000 feet above the level of the sea. Rain had begun to fall in the valley of the San Joaquin in this latitude (37°) on the 20th of December, and snow at the same lime upon the summit of the mountain. The mean temperature of the mountain during this ascent and descent (December 24 to Jan-nary 8) was 31°.6' at sunrise, 4(J°.4' at sunset.
Descent by Mr. Kern's party, latitude 35°.30', December and January. Mr. Kern, with a detatched party, had crossed the Sierra about one hundred miles further south, nearly opposite the head of the Tulare takes, and remained encamped in a valley or cove, near the summit of the Sierra, at the head of Kern's river, from December 27th to January 17lh ; the cove well wooded with evergreen oaks, some varieties of pine, firs and cedars, maintaining the usual majestic growth which characterizes the cone-bearing trees of the Sierra. Until the 12th of January the weather was almost that of summer, when the rains commenced, which was almost three weeks later than in latitude 37°. The 17th there was a fall of snow, washed off in the cnve by a rain in the afternoon, the. high ridges remaining covered a foot deep. The mean temperature in the cove from December 27th to January 17th was at sunrise 26°, at noon 60°, at sunset 52°. After that, snow and rain, alternated with sunshine, snow remaining on the ridges, and winter set in fairly on all the upper half of the mountain.
Ascent about latitude 41°, (April and May,) April 26,1846—head of the lower Sacramento valley. Left the river Sacramento, going opone ofthe many pretty little streamsthatfiow into the river around the head of the lower valley. On either side low, steep ridges were covered alon^ their summits with pine,andoaks occupied lliesomewhat broad bottoms of the creek. Snowy peaks made the horizon on the right, and the temperature at noon was 71°, but the day was still and hot. The small streams are numerous here,and have much bottom land, grass and acorna abundant, and both ofexcellent quality. Encamped in tlie evening in latitude 40° 38' 68", elevation above theseal.USO feet, temperature at sunset 56'°, weather
pleasant. Grisly bears numerous, four being killed by the hunters after we had encamped.
April 27.— Found, a good way along a flat ridge, a pretty, open mountain stream on the right, the couiKry beginning to assume a monnlaitious character, wooded wuh mingled oak and long-leaved pine, and having a
Mis. No. 5.
surface of scattered rocks, with grass and flowers. At noon, crossing a
o?^1';. ge' the ^^"meter showed 610. At night, at an elevation of ^/iW teet, we encamped on a creek that went roaring into the.valley:
temperature at sunset 52°. —
28th, continued up the stream on which we had encamped, the country rising rapidly, clothed with heavy timber. On crossing one of the high
ridges, snow and pinus lamhcrtiani appeared together. An hour before
noon reached the pass in the main ridge, in an open pine foresc, elevation 4,b00 feet, thermometer at 5U°, latitude near 41". Snow in patches, and deciduous oaks mixed with the pines.
Returning upon a different line, towards the lower valley of the Sacramento, near its head, we found in the descent a truly magnificent forest. It was composed mainly of a cypress and a lofty white cedar, {Thul/a gi^antea,} 121) to 14U feet high, common in the mountains of California. All wese massive trees, but the cypress was distinguished by its uniformly great bulk. None were seen so large as are to be found in the coast mountains near Santa Cruz, but there was a great number of targe trees—seven feet being a common diameter—carrying the bulk eighty or a hundred feet without a limb. At an elevation of four thousand six hundred feet the temperature at sunset was 48°, and at sunrise 37°. Oaks already appeared among the pines, but did not yet show a leaf. In the meadow marshes of the forest grass was green, but not yet abundant, and-the deer were poor. Descending the flanks of the mountain, which fell gradually towards the plain, the way was through the same deep forest. At the elevation of about 3,OUO .feet the timber had become more open, the hills roiling, and many streams made pretty bottoms of rich grass, the black oaks in full and beautifal leaf were thickly studded among- the open pines, which had become much smaller and fewer in variety, and when we halted near mid day, at an elevation of 2,200 feet, we were in one of the most pleasant days of late spring, cool and sunny, with a pleasant breeze, amidst a profusion of various flowers, many trees in dark summer foliage, and some still in bloom. Among these the white spikes of the horse chestnut, common through all the oak region, were conspicuous. We had again reached summer weather, and the temperature at
noon. was 70°.
In the afternoon we descended to the open valley of the Sacramento,
1 001) feet lower, where the thermometer was 65°. at sunset, and 54^. at sunrise, This was the best timber region that I had seen/and the more valuable from its position near the head of the lower valley of the Sacramento, and accessible from its waters.
Bay of San Francisco and dependent country.—The bay of San Francisco has been celebrated, from the time of its first discovery, as one ofihe finest in the world, and is justly entitled to that character even under the seaman's view of a mere harbor. But when all the .accessory advantages
which belona- to it— fertile and.picturesque dependent country, mildness and salubrity of climate; connexion with the great interior valley of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin; its vast resources for ship timber, gram, and cattle—when these advantages are taken into the account, with its geograph- . ica position on the line of communication with Asia, it rises into an im-^o^^^ above that of a mere harb6r, and deserves a particular notice ^ aav^ccouutof maritime California. Its laimidinal position is that of L sbonT^i male is that of southern Italy; settlements upon it for more
Mis. No. 5.
itself connected with the ocean by a defensible gate, opening outbetween seventy and eighty miles to the right and left, upon a breadth often to fifteen deep enough for the largest ships, with bold shores suitable for
townsand settlements, and fertile adjacent country for cultivation. The head of the bay is about forty miles from the sea, and there commences
its connexion with the noble valleys oftheSanJoaquin and Sacramento.
Coast country north, of the bay of ^an Francisco.—Between the Sacramento valley and the coast, north ofthe bayof San Francisco, thecountry is broken into mountain ridges and rolling hills, with many very fertile valleys madebylakes and small streams. In the interior it is wooded generally with oak, and immediately along the coast presents open prairie lands, among heavily timbered forests, having a greater variety of trecp, and occasionally a larger growth than the timbered region of the Sierra Nevada- In some parts it is entirely covered, in areas of many miles, with a close growtfi of wild oats, to the exclusion of almost every oth-er plant. In the latter part of June and beginning of July, we found here a climate sensibly different from that of the Sacramento valley, a few miles east, being much cooler and moister. In clear weather the mornings were .like those of the Rocky mountains in August, pleasant and cool, following cold clear nights, in that part lying nearer the coast, we found the mornings sometimes cold, accompanied with chilling winds, and fogs 'frequently came rolling up over the ridges from the sea. These sometimes rose at evening and continued until noon of the next day, - They are not dry, but wet mists, leaving- the face of the country covered as by a drizzling rain. This sometimes causes rust in wheat grown within its influence, but vegetables nourish and attain extraordinary size. '
I learned from Captain Smith, a resident at Bodes'a,.t\}at the winter months make a delightful season—rainy days (generally of warm showers) alternating with mild and calm, pleasant weather and pure bright -skies—much preferable to the summer when the fogs and strong northwest winds, which prevail during the greater part of the year, make the morning part ot the day disagreeably cold.
Owing probably to the fogs, spring is earlier along the coast than in the interior, where, during the interval between the rains, the ground becomes very dry. Flowers bloom in December, and by the beginning of February grass acquires a strong and luxuriant growth, and fruit trees (peach pear, apple, &c.,) are covered with blossoms. In situations immediately open to the sea, the tiuit ripens late, generally at the end of August, beiiiff retarded by the chilling innuence of the northwest winds ; a short distance inland, where intervening ridges obstruct these winds and shelter the face of the country, there is a different climate and a remarkable difference in the lime of ripening fruits; the heat of the sun has full inuLl-ence on the soil, and vegetation goes rapidly lo perfection.
The country in July began to present the dry appearance common to all California as the summer advances, except along the northeirn coast within the influence ot the fogs, or where the land is sheltered by forests, and in the moist valleys of streams and coves of the hills. In some of these was an uncommonly luxuriant growth of oats, still partially green, while elsewhere they were dried up; the face of the country presenting generally a mellow and ripened appearance, and the small su-eains beginning to lose their volume and draw up into the hills. .
This northern part of the coast country is heavily timbered, more so as
T
Mis. No. 5. 3g
it goes north to the Oregon boundary, (42°,) with many bold streams falling directly into the sea.
Th.e country bef.ween. ihf hays of Saiz Francisco and Monterei/.—\v\ the latter part of ^.wary, 1846, a few shrubs and flowers were already in bloom on the sandy shore of Monterey bay (lat. 36° 40'.) Among these were the California poppy, and nemopkilainsi^nis.
On the oth of February, I found many shrubs and plants in bloom, in. the coast mountains bordering Sl. Joseph's valley, between Monterey and the bay of San Francisco, and vegetation appeared much more green and spring-like, and further advanced than in the plains. About the middle of February I noticed the geranium in flower in the valley, and (rom that time vegetation began generally to bloom. Cattle were obtained in
February from ranches among the neighboring hills, extremely fat, selected from the herds in the range.
During the months of January and February, rainy days alternated with lo-ng intervals of fair and pleasant weather, wliich is the character of (he rainy season in California. The mean temperature in the valley of St. Joseph—open to the bay of San Francisco—from the l3ih to the 22d of February, was 50° at sunrise and 61° at sunset. The oaks in this valley, especially along the foot of the hills; are partly covered with long hanging moss—an indication of much humidity in the climate.
We remained several days, in the latter part of February, in the upper portion of tlie coast mountain between St. Joseph and Santa Cruz. The place of our encampment was 2,000 feet above the sea, and was covered with a luxuriant growthi of grass, a foot high in many places. At sunrise the temperature was 40°, at noon 60°, at 4 in the afternoon 65°, and 63° at sunset;, with very pleasant weather. The mountains were wooded with many varieties of trees, and in some parts with heavy forests. These forests are characterized by a cypress {taxodiuni) of extraordinary dimensions, already mentioned among the trees of the Sierra Nevada, which is distinguished among the forest trees of America by its superior size and height. Among many which we measured in this part of the mountain, nine and ten feet diameter was frequent—eleven sometimes, bul souis- beyond eleven only in a single tree, which reached fourteen feeEin diameter. Above^ two hundred feet was a frequent height. In
'this locality the bark was very deeply furrowed, and unusually thick, being full sixteen inches in some of the trees. The tree was now in bloom flowering near the summit, and the flowers consequently difficult to procure. This is the staple timber tree of the country, being cut into
•both boards and shingles, and is the principal timber sawed at the mills. It is soft, and easily worked, wearing away too quickly to be used for floors. It seems to have ail the durability which anciently gave the cypress so much celebrity. Posts which have been exposed to thewea^ ther for three quarters of a century (since the foundation of the missions) show no marks of decay in the wood, and are now converted into beams
and pos?s for private buildings. In California this tree is called the palo
Colorado It is the king of trees. .
Ainon» 6w oaks is a handsome lofty evergreen species specifically
differ from those of the lower grounds, and in its genera appearance S-reSingh^^
^°^^ffA ^diameter^nd a hundred feet high. 3
Mis. No. 5.
^
Another remarkable tree of these woods is called in the language of the country wadrono. It is a beautiful evergreen, with large, thick, and glossy digitate leaves, the trunk and branches reddish colored, and having a smooth and singularly naked appearance, as if the bark had been stripped off. In its green state the wood is brittle, very heavy, hard, and close grained ; it is said to assume a red color when dry, sometimes variegated, and susceptible of a high polish. This tree was found b,y us only in the mountains. Some measured nearly four feet in diameter, and were
about sixty feet high. A few scattered flowers were now showing throughout the forest, and
on the open ridges shrubs were flowering; but the bloom was not yet
general.
On the 25th of February we descended to the coast near the northwestern point of Monterey bay, losing our fine weaiher, which in the evening changed info a cold southeasterly storm, continuing wilh heavy and constant rains for several days.
During this time the mean temperature was 53° at sunrise, 56°.5 at
9h., a. m., 57°.5 at noon, 54°.5 at 2h. in the afternoon, 53° 4 at 4, and 52°.7 at sunset. On the 28th, a thick fog was over the bay and on the mountains at sunrise, and the thermometer was at 38°—15° betow the ordinary temperature—rising at; 9 o'clock to 59°. These fogs prevail along the coast during a great part of the summer and autumn^ but do not cross the ridges into the interior. This locality is celebrated for the excellence and great size of its vegetables, f especially the Irish potato and onions,) with which, for this reason, it has lor many years supplied the shipping which visits Monterey. A forest of polo Colorado at the foot of the mountains in this vicinity is noted for the great size and height of the trees. 1 measured one which was 275 feet in height, and fifteen feet in diameter three feet above the base. Though this was distinguished by the greatest girth, other surrounding trees were but little inferior in size and still taller. Their colossal height and massive bulk gave an air of grandeur to the forest.
These trees grow tallest in the bottom lands, and prefer moist soils and north hillsides. In situations where they are protected from the prevail' ing northwest winds, they shoot up to a great height; but wherever their heads are exposed, these windsappear to chill them and stop their growth.
They then assume a spreading shape, wilh larger branches, and an apparently broken summit.
The rain storm closed with February, and the weather becoming fine, on the first of March we resumed our progress along the coast. Over the face of the country between Santa Cruz and Monterey, and around the plains of St. John, the grass, which had been eaten down by the lar°e herds of caille, was now everywhere springing up; flowers began \o show their bloom, and in the valleys of the mountains bordering the Sa-linas plains, (a plain of some 50 miles in length, made by the Salinas
.river,) wildcats were three feet high, and well headed by the 6lh of March.
During three days that we remained on one of these mountains at an elevation or 2,200 feet above the sea, and in sight of Monterey the'mean temperature was 44° at sunrise, 55° at 9 in ihe morning, 6tJ° at noon, 62° at 2 in the afternoon, 57° at 4, and 53° at sunset. At the same hours' the dew point was at 42°0, 4S°.i, 52°.8, 54°9, 62°. 9, 5l°6, and the quantity .-of moisture in a cubic fool of air, 3.283 grs., 3.962 grs., 4.726 grs., 4.972
Mis. No. 5. g5
grs., 4.682 grs., and 4.5S8 grs., respectively. The weather remained bright and pleasant ; fogs sometimes covering the mountains at sunrise but going off in a few hours. These are open mountains, untimbered' but fertile in oats and other grasses, affording fine range for cattle. Oaks and pines are scattered thinlyover theirupper parts, ana in the higherand more exposed situations the evergreen oaks show the course and influence of the northwest winds, stunted and blighted by their chillness, bent to the ground by their force, and growing in that form.
Decending into the valley of the San Joaqiiin, (March 11,) we found
almost a summer temperature, and the country clothed in the floral beauty of advanced spring,
Southern counfry and rainy season^ {latitude 32°—35°.)—South of Poiitf Conrepcion, the climate and general appearance of the country exhibit a marked change. The coast from that cape trends almost directly-east, the face of the country has a more southern exposure, and is sheltered by ranges of low mountains from the violence and chilling effect of the northwest winds, hence the climate is stili more mild and genial,
fostering a richer variety of productions, differing in kind from those of the northern coast.
The face of the country along the coast is generally naked, the lower hills and plains devoid of trees, during the summer heats parched and bare, and water sparcely distributed. The higher ridges and the country in their immediate vicinity are always more or less, and sometimes prettily wooded. These usually afford water and good green grass throughout the year. When the plains have become dry, parched, and bare of grass, the cattle go up into these ridges, where, with cooler weather and shade, they find water and good pasture. In the dryest part of the^year we found sheep and cattle fat, and saw flowers blooming in all the months of the year. Along the foot of the. main ridges the soil is rich and comparatively moist, wooded, with grass and water abundant; and many localities would afford beautiful and productive farms. The ranges of the Sierra Navada (here approaching its termination) still remain high, some peaks always retaining snow, and afford copious streams, which run all
the year. Many of these streams are absorbed in the light soil of the larger plains before they reach the sea. Properly directed, the water of these rivers is sufficient to spread cultivation over the plains. Throughout the country every farm or rancho has its own springs or running streams sufficient for the support of stock, which hitherto has made the chief object
of industry ill California. .. , ' , -i ii-
The soil is generally good, of a sandy or light character, easily cultivated, and in many places of extraordinary fertility. Cu tivation has at-ways been by irrigation, and the soil seems to require only water to produce viporously. Among the arid brush-covered hills south of San Diego we found little valleys converted by a single spring into crowded gardens, where pears, peaches, quinces, pomegranates, grapes, olives Bnd other fruits orew luxuriantly together, the little stream acting upon then like a pr c'iSle^f 1^ The southern frontier of this portion of California Seminen^ ^ lo the cultivation of the vine and the ohve. A s^e v^? has Len 'known to yield a barrel of wine, and the ohve trees
w^^^^^ are bright and hot, the sky pure an? Sy cSss, and the nights cool and beautifully serene. In
36 Mis. No. 5.
this month fruits generally ripen—melons, pears, peaches, prickly fig, (cactvs tuna,} &c., and largft bunches of ripe grapes are scattered numerously through the vineyards, but do not reach maturity until the following month. After the vintage, grapes are hung up in the houses and so kept for use throughout the winter.
The mornings in September are cool and generally delightful; -we sometimes found them almost cold enough to freeze; the mid-day hours bright and hot, but a breeze usually made the shade pleasant; the evenings calm, and nights cool and clear when unobscnred by fogs. We reached the southern country at the end of July, and the first clouds we saw appeared on the 6th, September at sunset, gradually spreading over the sky, and the morning was cloudy, but clear again before noon. Lightning at this time was visible in the direction of Sonora, where the rainy season had already commenced, and the cloudy weather was perhaps indicative of its approach here. On some nights the dews were remarked to be heavy;
and as we were journeying along the coast between San Diego and Sanra Barbara, fogs occasionally obscured the sunset over the ocean, and rose next morning with the sun. On the wooded plain at the foot of the San Gabriel mountain, in the neighborhood of-Sania Barbara, and frequently along the way, the trees were found to be partly covered with moss.
Country between the Santa Barbara mountain and Monterey^ {lat. 34° 30' to 36° 30'-) About the middle of September we encamped near the summit of the Cuevta dc Santa I/ies, (Santa Barba-ra mountain,) on a little creek with cold water, good fresh grass, and much timber; and thenceforward north along the mountain behind the Sa-nfa Ines mission, the country assumed a better appearance, generally well wooded and tolerably well covered with grass of good quality, very different from the dry, naked, and parched appearance of the country below Santa Barbara. The neighboring mountain exhibited large timber, redwood or pine, probably the latter. Water was frequent in small running streams. Crossing the fertile plain of San Luis Ob/syo, (lat. 350,) a sheltered valley noted for the superiority of its olives, we entered the Sa-nta Lucia range, which lies between the coast and the Salinas or Buenaventura river, (of the bay of Monterey.) We found this a beautiful mountain covered thickly with wild oats, prettily wooded, and having on the side we ascended, (which is the water shed,) in every little hollow, a running stream of cold water, which the weather made delightful. The days were hot, at evening cool, and the morning weather clear and exhilirating. Descending into the valley, we found it open and handsome, making a pleasing country, well wooded, and everywhere covered with grass of a good quality. The coast range is wooded on both sides and to the summit with varieties of oaks and pines. The upper part of the Salinas valley, where we are now travelling, would afford excellent stock fanus, and is particularly we'll suited to
.sheep. The country never becomes miry in the rainy season, and none are lost by cold in the mild winter.
The good range, grass, and acorns, made game abundant, and deer and
grisly bear were numerous. Twelve of the latter were killed by the party in one thicket.
Lower down, in the neighborhood of San Miguel,the country changed its appearance,, losing its timbered and grassy character, and showing much sand. The past year had been one of unusual drought, and the river had almost entirely disappeared, leaving a bare sandy bed with a few
Mis. No. 5. 87
pools of water. About fifteen miles below San Miguel it enters a gorge of the hills, making broad thickly wooded bottoms, and affording^good range and abundance of water, the bed being sheltered by the thick timber. The lower hills and spurs from the ranges hording the river, are very^dry and bare, affording liltle or no grass. Approaching the mission of Soledad the river valley widens, making fertile bottoms and plains of arable land, some fifteen to twenty miles broad, extending to Monterey bay, and bordered by ranges of mountain from two to three thousand feet high. These ranges have the character of fertile mountains, their hills being covered with grass and scattered trees, and their valleys producing fields of wild oats, and wooded with oak groves. Being unsheltered by woods, water is not abundant in the dry season, but at the end
of September we found springs among the hills, and water remained in the creek beds.
On the evening of the 25th September, cumvli made their appearance in the sky, and the next morning was cloudy with a warm southerly wind and a few drops of rain—the first of the rainy season. The weather then coniinued uninterruptedly dry through all October-rfair and bright during the first part, but cloudy during the latter half. At the end of the month the rainy season set. in fully, consisting generally of rain squalls with bright weather intervening, and occasional southeasterly storms continuing several days. The previous seasons had been very ^hort and light for several years, and the country hadSunered from the consequent drought. The present season commenced early, and was very favorable. Much rain fell in the low country, and snow accumulated to a ^reat depth in the high mountains. The first rains changed the face of the country. Grass immediately began to shoot up rapidly, and by the end of the first week of ]\oi3ember the dead hue of the hills around Monterey had already given place to green.
A brief sketch of the weather during a journey in this year from the mission, of San Juan Bauptista (latitude 37^,) to los Angeles will exhibit the ordinary character of the season.
In the -valley of San Juan during the latter half of November there •was no rain ; the weather generally pleasant and bright, -with occasional clouds. The night clear and cool, occasionally cold ; the mornings clear and sharp, with hoar frost sometimes covering the ground. The days were warm and pleasant, and the evenings mild and calm. On some mornings a thick fog settled down immediately after sunrise, but in
a few hours cleared off into a pleasant day. The falling weather recommenced on the 30th, with a stormy day of
spring • blue sky in spots, rapidly succeeded by masses of dark clouds and pouring rain, which fell heavily during the greater part of the night.
The morning of the 1st December was partially clear, but rain recommenced in a few hours, with sky entirely clouded. The weather brightened at noon, and from a high point of the hills, bordering the San Juan river valley, up which we were travelling, snow was visible on summits of the dividing range between the San Joaqum valley .and the coast It rained heavily and incessantly during the night, and continued ailne nex^ day. In the night the. sky cleared off bright with a nor^ wind but clouded up at morning, with ram and a broken sky. ft here ^e^e sho^ve^^ theday, with intervals of bright and hot sun;•were showers otrain during me uay, and the sky at sunset was without a;cioud.
88 Mis. No. 5
^ *
During the day and night of the 4th, there were occasional showers. The sky was tolerably clear on the morning of the 5th, with a prospect of fair weather. The tents were frozen, and snow appeared on the near ridges. We were then, in a small interior valley of the mountains, bordering the Silin'is river, and about 1,000 feet above the sea.
December the 6th was a beautiful da/, followed by a cold frosty night.
The next day we descended to the valley of the Salinas .river, Ehe weather continuing clear and pleasant during the day. Snow appeared on the mountains on both sides of the valley, and a cloud from some of them gave a slight shower during the night. Several successive days were clear, with hot/sun; the nights cold, starry, and frosty. The new grass on the hills was coming out vigorously. The morning of the 10th was keeli and clear, with scattered clouds, and a southerly wind, which bro'-ight up showers of ra^ at night, followed by fog in the morning.
On the 12th, at the mission of Santa MarsfarUa^ in the head of the Salinas valley, rain began in the afternoon, with a cold wind, and soon increased. to a southeasterly storm, with heavy rain during all the night;
The 13th was cloudy, with occasional showers. During the night the weather became very bad, and by morning had increased to a violent and cold southeasterly rain storm. In the afternoon the storm subsided, and 1 was followed by several days of variable weather.
liy the 19th, the country where we were travelling between S/zn L^tis Obi-spo and the Cuesta. of Santa Jnes, showed a handsome covering of grass, which required two weeks more to become excellent. There were several days of warm weather, with occasional showers and hot sun, and. cattle began to seel; the shade.
The 23d was a day of hard rain, followed by fine weather on the 24fh, and a cold southeasterly rain storm on the 23ih.
During the remainder of the year, the weather continued fair and cool.
No rain fell during the first half of January, -which we passed between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles; the days were bright and very pleasant, with warm sun, and the nights generally cold. In the neglected orchards of the San Buenaventura and Fernando missions, the olive trees remained loaded with the abundant fruit, which continued in perfectly good condition.
About the l4ih, a day of rain succeeded by an interval of fine weather, again interrupted by a rainy, disagreeable southeaster on the 23d. During the remainder of the month the days were bright and pleasant—almost of summer—sun and clouds varying; the nights clear, but sometimes a little cold ; and much snow showing on the mountain. overlooking the plains of San Gabriel.
In the first part of February, at Los Angeles, there were some foggy and misty mornings, with showers of rain at intervals of a week. The weather then remained for several weeks uninterruptedly and beautifully serene, the sky remarkably pure, the air soft and grateful, and it was difficult to imagine any climate more delightful. In the meantime' the processes of vegetation went on with singular rapidity, and, by the end of the month, the face of the country was bsaudfiil with the great abundance of pasture, covered with a luxuriant growth of ^eranium^ [erod'i-i^n ci':u-tariufJi,') so esteemed as food for cattle and horses, and all grazin? aiii-
t •p J Gf ^
mals. The orange trees were crowded with flowers and fruit in various sizes, and along the foot of ths mountain, bordering the San Gabriel
Mis. No. 5. 39
plain, fields of orange colored flowers were visible at the distance of fifteen miles from Los Angeles.
In the midst of the bright weather there was occasionally a cold night. In the morning of March 9 new snow appeared on the San Gabriel mountain, and there was frost in the plain below ; but these occasionally cold nights seem to have no influence on vegetation.
On the 23d and 27th of March there were some coniinued and heavy snowers of rain, about the last of the season in the southern country. In the latter part, of April fogs began to be very frequent, rising at midnight and continuing until 9 or 10-ot the following morning. About the beginning of May the mornings were regularly foggy until near noon ; the remainder of the day sunny, frequently accompanied with high wind.
The climate of maritime California is greatly modified by the structure of the country, and under this aspect may be considered in three divisions—the southern, below Point Concepcion and the Santa Barbara mountain, about latitude 35°; the northern, from Cape Mendocino, latitude 41°, to the Oregon boundary; and the middle, including the bay and basin of San Francisco and the coast between Point Concepcion and Cape Mendocino. Of these three divisions the rainy season is longest" and heaviest ,in the north and lightest in the south. Vegetation is governed accordingly ; coming with the rains, decaying where tiley fail. Summer and winter, in our sense of the terms, are not applicable to this part of the country. It is not heat and cold, but wet and dry which mark the seasons ; and the winter months, instead of killing vegetation, revive it. The dry season makes a period of consecutive drought, the only winter in the vegetation of this country, which canhardly be said at any time to cease. In forests, where the soil is sheltered, in low lands of streams and hilly country, where the ground remains moist, grass continues constantly green and flowers bloom in all the months of the year. In the southern half o'f the country the long summer drought has rendered irrigation necessary, and the experience of the missions, in their prosperous day, has shown that in California, as elsewhere, the dryest plains are made productive, and the heaviest crops produced by that mode of cultivation. With irrigation a succession of crops may be produced throughout the year. Salubrity and a regulated mildness characterize the climate ; there being no prevailing diseases, and the extremes of heat during the summer being checked by sea breezes during the day, and by light airs from the Sierra Nevada during the night. The nights are generally cool and refreshing, as is the shade during the hottest day.
California, below the Sierra Nevada, is about the exient of Italy, geographically considered in all the extent of Italy from the Alps to the ter. initiation of the peninsula. It is of the same length, about the same breadth consequently the same area, (about one hundred thousand square miles \) and presents much similarity of climate and productions. Like Italy'i£ lies north and south, and presents some differences of climate and productions, the effect of difference of latitude, proximity of high mountains and configuration of the coast. Like Italy, it is a country of mountains and valleys : different from it in its internal structure, it is formed for unify; its large rivers being concentric, and its large valleys aoourtenant to the great central bay of San Francisco, within the area of whose waters the dominating power must be found.
Geographically, the position of this California is one»f the best in the world • lying on the coast of the Pacific, fronting Asia, on the line of an
40 -Mis. No. 5.
4
American road to Asia, and possessed of advantages to give full effect to its grand geographical position.
The map of Oregon and California, presented with this memoir, is only a part performance of the Senate^ order of February- 2, 1847. That order contemplated a topograpliical and descriptive map, forwhichthereis some materfal on hand, but not enough to complete the work on the plan required, or in a way to do justice to the subject. As now laid before the Senate, it may be assumed to be the best that has yet appeared, but is still imperfect and incomplete. With the knowledge already acquired in the expeditions which 1 have conducted, and. which enable me to know • what parts of the country most require examination, one year more of labor in the field would furnish me additional materials sufficient to complete a mapof these countries, with topographical and descriptive maps of their most valuable parts, and a general map of the whole from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean. Having been many years engaged in this geographical labor, and having made so much progress in it, I should be much gratified with an opportunity to complete it in the public employ; and I respectfully submit the subject to the consideration of your
honorable body.
This geographical memoir, as stated in the beginning, is only a preliminary sketch in anticipation of a fuller publication, which the observations of the last expedition would justify, but not sufficient to give the full view of Oregon and California which the increasing importance of those countries demands. The publication of the results of this expedition, with or without further additions from another exploration, is respectfully submit- • ted to your consideration. The results of the previous two expeditions were published by order of the Senate, and disposed of according to its pleasure. No copy-right was taken, and whatever information the journals of the two expeditions contained, passed at once into general .circulation. 1 would prefer a similar publication of the results of the last expedition ; but being no longer in the public service, an arrangement for the^, preparation and the superintendence of tJie publication would be necessary.
All which is respectfully submitted. /
J. CHARLES FREMONT.
WASHINGTON, June, 1848.
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